Walking in the footsteps of the brigands of the Band of Cartore along a spectacular hiking route between Val de Varri, Salto Valley and the slopes of Mt. Velino.
A 100-kilometer Trail that can be walked in seven days among the forests, meadows and villages, which are located along the border between Abruzzo and Lazio in the territory that, in the 1800s, was part of the Papal State and the Bourbon Kingdom. Departure and arrival by a loop route from Sante Marie (AQ), near Tagliacozzo, through Marsica and Cicolano, between 800 and 1,300 meters above sea level, where brigands lived, who had their base in the suggestive hamlet of Cartore, from which the band took its name. These were not thugs, but real partisans fighting in hiding against the invading Sabaudian: the new masters who arrived from the north had raised taxes tenfold on people who were already starving and imposed compulsory conscription on young people who could not stop working their land as a matter of mere subsistence for the entire family. The history of that period was not all sunshine and roses: there were kidnappings, ransoms, violence and dramatic moments. But it is the history of these small villages that wind along this naturalistic, historical and spiritual path that makes it possible to experience tourism under the banner of sustainability and “slow travel” to have a different, but equally rich experience.
From Sante Marie, the starting point of the Brigade Trail, we move toward the village of St. Stephen's and then cross the border between Marsica Occidentale and Cicolano. From Nesce you arrive at the charming village of Cartore, once the base of the band of brigands of the same name, with an excursion to the Duchess Lake (1,788 m), set in one of the most beautiful frames of the central Apennines, within the Reserve of the same name. The walk continues, crossing again the border between Cicolano and Marsica Occidentale to reach Rosciolo de’ Marsi, a Scurcola Marsicana and finally close the circle at Sante Marie. The path is walkable in a week, with stages of about 15 km a day, except the first one, which has only 5 km to get used to walking, through pristine forests, dirt trails, mule tracks, oaks, undergrowths, ascents and slopes. You go from the larger villages such as Borgorose (population 4600) to small villages such as that of Tube, where the number of residents in the winter season is 7. Perhaps being able to stay overnight in one of the most pristine and picturesque areas of the path, right there where it all begins, Cartore.
Nestled in a valley on the slopes of Mt. Velino, at 944 Mt., the village is the only village within the Regional Park of the Duchess Mountains. From here start the paths leading to the Duchess Lake and to nearby Mount Velino via the Teve Valley. All along the way, the walker will experience the friendliness, loquacity, smiles and hospitality of the local people, who never fail to offer fresh water, refreshment, a seat for a stop or hospitality, albeit remedial, for the night. You meet authentic people who can tell you the secrets and legends of those mountains. Stop and listen to the stories of the inhabitants of these places. inevitably makes one savor and respect more the territory we are walking through. Along the way, you can stay overnight in the facilities used as shelters for walkers, almost all of which are private homes that have arranged to do so with B&Bs or with land to pitch your own tent. You do not have to be an experienced camper, but people who are respectful of nature and the surrounding landscape.
The path is also passable in Mountain Bike departing from Scurcola Marsicana or from the Farmhouse le Crete, from where you can also choose the friendly company of donkeys.
Walking, having this kind of experience, is something that goes beyond the vacation itself, it is a primal experience that brings you back to the earth, reconnects you with the nature around you, allows you to realize how much everything is really bigger than us and can be apart from our presence. It allows you to observe the beauty of landscapes and historic centers. STOP. SLOW DOWN. This is perhaps the term that together with “WATCH” represents more of my experience of TRAVEL.
Photos and Texts by ©Andrea Colarieti
